Rolex has just unveiled the Perpetual Padellone. It’s a new annual calendar watch with a moonphase display, and it’s dripping with retro charm.
The name is a nod to reference 8171, a Rolex from the late 1940s and early 1950s. Collectors nicknamed it the ‘Padellone’, which is Italian for “big pan.” That’s because of its unusually large, for the time, 38mm case.
This new version comes in a similar size, now 39mm, and the spirit is very much intact.
At 12 o’clock, you get two apertures showing the day and month. A blue hand tipped with a tiny crescent moon sweeps round the dial to show the date. And at 6 o’clock sits an absolutely stunning moonphase disc.
The full moon and new moon are both cut from meteorite, with the new moon given a dark blue coating. Tiny stars are pad-printed around them. It’s a real “window onto the night sky,” as Rolex puts it.
As beautiful as the watch is, the bigger story is what’s ticking away inside…
The Padellone runs on the new calibre 7190, and it’s a serious piece of engineering. It’s covered by 30 patent applications, two of which are exclusive to this watch alone.
The calendar system is called ‘Haplos’, and while most annual calendars need fiddly correctors throughout the year, this one only needs adjusting once, when February rolls into March (sorry to the folks hoping for a Rolex perpetual calendar).
Even better, everything jumps instantly at midnight. The date, day and month all flip over in a fraction of a second, all at the same time. Rolex calls this a mastery of “calendar jump mechanisms”.
The movement also borrows tech from last year’s Land-Dweller. That means the Dynapulse escapement and Syloxi hairspring both make an appearance, plus a beefed-up 5Hz beat rate. Power reserve comes in at a healthy 66 hours.
Turn the watch over and there’s a transparent case back showing off Rolex Côtes de Genève bridges and a cut-out yellow gold oscillating weight. I’m glad Rolex has started using display casebacks for its dress watches.
Design-wise, this is classic Rolex through and through. The bezel is domed on top and fluted below. The dial has a grained finish in the centre with a satin edge. I think it’s really understated and elegant. It’s got a lot of charm.
There are three versions to choose from. The flagship comes in 18ct Everose gold, with a white dial and the brand’s Settimo bracelet, made from seven tiny contoured links. That’s the one I’d have on my wrist if I won the lottery tonight.
There’s also a 950 platinum version with an ice blue dial, paired with a matt black alligator strap.
And a third option keeps the Everose gold and white dial but swaps to a matt brown alligator strap instead.
All three carry Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification, which got tougher earlier this year with new tests for magnetism resistance, reliability and sustainability.
The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is available now priced from US$59,000 / £49,150.
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