Watches and Wonders 2025 was full of stories. With over 60 of the world’s best watch brands vying for wrist space and media attention, this year’s show delivered everything from ultra-complicated haute horlogerie to minimalist marvels.
But one watch stole the limelight the moment it was unveiled: the Rolex Land-Dweller. With its integrated bracelet design that nods to the 1970s Oysterquartz, the Land-Dweller boasts no fewer than 32 patent applications – 18 exclusive to this model, and 16 relating to its new 5Hz movement. Everyone has an opinion on it.
And fair enough – it’s Rolex doing quite unusual things for a brand that usually plays things safe. But while everyone else was debating what a ‘Land-Dweller’ actually is, three genuinely great watches were flying under the radar.
Whether it’s technical wizardry, quiet elegance, or long-awaited functional upgrades, here are three standout timepieces you might’ve missed at Watches and Wonders 2025.
1. TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Edition
TAG Heuer’s revived an icon with the Formula 1 Solagraph, but did you spot this limited edition Monaco? TAG’s Monaco is no stranger to reinvention – it’s been everything from retro chronograph to skeletonised and bright pink – but the Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Edition is the most fun version yet.
Limited to just 10 pieces, this is the brand’s most complex watch to date – and a great way to celebrate its revived sponsorship of Formula 1. The case is made from a single block of white ceramic and finished entirely by hand. Twin ceramic arches accentuate the aerodynamic silhouette, while a red and white minute track is a nod to the race circuit. The translucent red dial reveals the mechanical complexity beneath, anchored by a hand-lacquered TAG Heuer shield at 12 o’clock and the phrase “LIGHTS OUT & AWAY WE GO” proudly printed across the split-seconds counters – a tribute to Crofty’s iconic start call.
Underneath it all beats an advanced rattrapante movement, capable of measuring split-second intervals with absolute accuracy.
2. Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A
In typical Grand Seiko fashion, a record-breaking technical achievement was unveiled quietly and elegantly, without much shouting or fanfare. But make no mistake: the new Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 powering the Spring Drive U.F.A is an absolute milestone. It introduces the “U.F.A.” (Ultra Fine Accuracy) designation, and that’s no exaggeration – the movement achieves a mightily impressive ±20 seconds per year. That’s not daily, weekly, or monthly accuracy. That’s per year. And it’s still powered by a mainspring.
This next-gen Spring Drive movement uses a new quartz oscillator, a re-engineered IC, vacuum sealing, and thermo-compensation data taken at multiple temperatures. It’s obsessive, brilliant, and entirely on brand. And for the first time in the Spring Drive family, there’s even a regulation switch tucked inside, allowing service centres to nudge accuracy back in line decades down the road.
The best bit? It all fits inside a 37mm case – the most compact 9R-series Grand Seiko yet. Finally, it’s a proper fit for smaller wrists. The Titanium version of the SLGB001 also debuts a new tool-free micro-adjust clasp, letting you fine-tune the fit in 2mm steps.
The dial design is inspired by Shinshu’s frost-laced winter forests – the titanium version in a silver-tinged blue with a tempered seconds hand.
3. Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
While the Cartier Tank à Guichets made all the headlines (and rightly so – it’s a stunning re-issue of a rare Cartier), a more traditional Tank also joined the party. The new Tank Louis Cartier – available in platinum or yellow gold – introduces a mesmerising dial texture so delicate you might miss it at first glance. But once it catches the light, it’s hard to look away.
These aren’t your run-of-the-mill sunbursts. Instead, Cartier’s used laser etching to create subtle radial grooves that fan out from the centre. The effect adds depth and nuance to a dial that’s otherwise wonderfully minimal – no numerals, just Cartier’s signature cabochon crown and those sword-shaped hands. In yellow gold it sings of vintage glamour; in platinum, it’s almost monochrome.
In many ways, this is Cartier doing what Cartier does best – timeless shapes with just enough modernity. No gimmicks, no overthinking, just pure elegance.
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